just found your blog or would have commented earlier – went to satemwa and didn’t stay at the guesthouse, but met the family-owners — an interesting tale itself that i’m afraid wouldn’t receive a fair telling in a blog comment.
all of this is to say that satemwa is beautiful and you can really do all that you’d want on a tea estate by staying there. they grow everything they need on site (including blue gum/eucalyptus trees to fell for burning) and they have their own dairy cattle to produce the best cheese one can eat in malawi. the best. try their thyolo mountain (also sometimes sold at savers choice in BT).